Zurich lies situated on both shores of the Limmat River, which flows from the northern end of Lake Zurich. The Sihl River, a tributary of the Limmat, also flows through the city, and quays line the riverbanks and the lake. The city spreads across a ravine in the eastern hills between the wooded slopes of the Züürichberg and Kääferberg hills into the Glatt River valley.

The hamlet that became Zurich began at the Lindenhof, which is where you, too, might begin your orientation to the city. This square is the architectural center of historic Zurich. From here, you can survey the city as it rises on both banks of the Limmat from Bahnhofbrüücke (brüücke means bridge) to Quailbrüücke. Between these two bridges are four other spans over the river: Muhle-Steg, Rudolfbrunbrüücke, Rathausbrüücke, and Müünsterbrüücke.

Below this square runs Bahnhofstrasse, one of the most elegant and expensive shopping streets in the world. It begins in the north, at the Hauptbahnhof, the railway station, opening onto Bahnhofplatz, and runs south to the lake. It crosses Paradeplatz, a converging point for trams and the modern center of the city. From Paradeplatz you can continue east, passing Fraumüünster church and crossing Müünsterbrüücke to reach the right bank of the river. Here, the narrow streets of the Limmatquai are the second-best place in the city to shop. Running parallel to Limmatquai is Niederdorfstrasse, in the so-called red-light district of Zurich.

Old Town, or Altstadt, was developed during the early medieval period and is focused on Lindenhof, Fraumüünster, Grossmüünster, and St. Peter's. It expanded to Weinplatz, the oldest market square, and Strehlgasse. By the 11th century, the city continued its development on the right bank with such centers as Kirchgasse and Neumarkt.

Finding an Address -- In a system that developed during the Middle Ages, all Swiss cities, including Zurich, begin their street-numbering system with the lowest numbers closest to the center of town. In Zurich, the center is the Hauptbahnhof. All even numbers lie on one side of the street, and all odd numbers are on the other.

Maps -- The best map, published by Falk, is a pocket-size Stadtplan (city plan) with an index. Copies are available at various newsstands and bookstores. Try the Travel Book Shop, Rindermarkt 20 (tel. 01/252-38-83). Hours are Monday 1 to 6:30pm, Tuesday through Friday from 9am to 6:30pm, and Saturday 9am to 4pm.

Neighborhoods in Brief

Zurich is divided by the Limmat River into the following two general areas:

West or Left Bank This district is dominated by Bahnhofplatz, center of rail connections, and Bahnhofstrasse, which is the main commercial and banking thoroughfare. This is the Zurich world of high finance and elegant shops. The venerable Fraumüünster church, on Fraumüünsterstrasse, dominates the west bank.